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AHAs vs. BHAs: What're they all about?

Written by: Sajjal Ejaz


Skincare has blown up over the past few years, especially on social media with platforms such as TikTok and Instagram. It’s pretty common for most of us to see a specific product work its “magic” on a couple of people, and the next thing you know, it's in your hands and you're applying it on your face without knowing what you're smothering all over your face. But the question is, do we really care to know what we’re putting on our faces, where these ingredients come from, what they contain, and if they’re perfect for us? Well, it depends. Today we will talk about two special ingredients that we see plastered in large print on many product bottles; AHAs and BHAs. It is important to know the differences between them, and what their purposes are.


We’ll start with their abbreviations. AHA is the abbreviation for alpha-hydroxy acid, and BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid. The word 'acid' may sound a bit petrifying, but fear not: these are good acids for your skin. These specific acids do not burn your skin but renew it. The word 'exfoliate,' straight from Google, literally means “(of a material) come apart or be shed from a surface in scales or layers." This word first appeared in the 1670s, and it originally meant “(of a material) cast off or shed,” and if you think about it, that is what exfoliating our skin is really about. It is like discovering jewels from underground; to remove all the gunk and dirt from the surface, and to unveil the fresh beauty underneath. The thing is, this is a natural process, but sometimes it does not satisfy our wants of how we would like our skin to appear. Over time, this process may slow down or stop altogether, which can result in dull, dry skin with imperfections such as blackheads, whiteheads, bumps, and wrinkles.


That was just a shallow overview of what a general cosmetic exfoliant is. Now we will take a jump into the deep end. AHAs are water-soluble acids that are derived from sugary fruits such as sugarcanes, citric fruits (think of citric acid), and other plant sources. They are a chemical exfoliant, which means that they use chemicals — specifically acids or enzymes — to polish away dead skin cells. They loosen the fluid that fastens the skin cells on the epidermis, the topmost layer of our skin, and once they are loosened, it becomes easier for them to shed off. AHAs are mainly used for fine lines and surface wrinkles, uneven skin tone, enlarged pores, and mild spots. They are usually marketed for all skin types, but extremely dry and sensitive skin should be more cautious when using. Some types of AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and malic acid.


BHAs are oil-soluble, so not only do they work their magic on the skin's surface, but they go deep inside the skin's pores, which makes them preferable for normal-to-oily skin that is prone to bumps, clogs, blemishes, and enlarged pores. They go deeper in your pores compared to AHAs and can dissolve the excess sebum and oil, which may contribute to the formation of acne.


An important thing to remember is to not go overboard with the exfoliating. Remember, you just want to lightly brush the dirt off the diamond, not break off bits of the diamond itself. But whether or not you choose an AHA or a BHA, the choice is yours!


Image Source: Getty Images



References:

Cobb, Cynthia, and Kristeen Cherney. “AHA vs. BHA: Choosing an Exfoliant, Acid Types, Products.” Healthline, 15 March 2018, http://www.healthline.com/health/aha-vs-bha#shared-benefits.


Etymonline. “exfoliate | Etymology, origin and meaning of exfoliate by etymonline.” Etymonline, N.d., http://www.etymonline.com/word/exfoliate.


Hopp, Deven. “18 Skincare Products With AHA/BHA For Smoother Skin.” Byrdie, 14 October 2022, http://www.byrdie.com/aha-and-bha-combinations.


Hussein, Jennifer. “17 Best Alpha Hydroxy Products in 2023 for Smoother, Softer Skin.” Allure, 17 February 2023, http://www.allure.com/gallery/best-alpha-hydroxy-acid-products.


Hussein, Jennifer, and Robin Marci. “Alpha Hydroxy Acids: What Is AHA? Everything to Know About the Skin-Care Ingredients.” Allure, 2 November 2021, http://www.allure.com/story/alpha-hydroxy-acids.


Paula's Choice. “AHA vs. BHA: Differences Between Them & Which to Use.” Paula's Choice, N.d., http://www.paulaschoice.com/skin-care-advice/exfoliants/difference-between-aha-and-bha-exfoliants.


Persensky, Melissa. “Facial Acids: Everything You Need To Know.” Cleveland Clinic Health Essentials, 6 March 2023, https://health.clevelandclinic.org/guide-to-facial-acids/.



Disclaimer: This organization's content is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment, or medical advice. Content provided on this website is for informational and educational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this website should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional.


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